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tesg's guide to big chain road food consumption
CHAIN -- Pal's
Sudden Service Several years ago, a site visitor alerted me to the existence of Pal's and my fascination was immediate. How could it NOT be. A drive-thru operation with some of the oddest buildings in modern archetecture? How do these get built? I've been planning trips to Tennessee ever since, but something always happens to delay the trip. Finally, in 2009, I made it. Fred "Pal" Barger became interested in the fast food hamburger format when seeing a similar operation in Texas during his Air Force tour in 1952. He decided to bring the concept home. In 1955, Barger met Ray Kroc at a restaurant convention in Chicago while doing research on equipment and toured the first Kroc McDonald's in Des Plaines. In 1956, Pal's Sudden Service was born on Revere Street in downtown Kingsport, TN. The building still operates as Pal's #1 today and, although renovated over the years, still carries the spirit of a classic 50's walk-up hamburger stand. It is immaculately maintained and a must-see for the fast food or roadside archetecture fanatics when passing through Kingsport. Actually, almost ANY of Pal's locations are an interesting study. Pal's formula design, which debuted in 1985 with what's known today as Pal's #3 and is used in 18 of the 22 current locations, is a simple rectangular block construction (most, if not all, painted a bright aqua color) that would resemble a concrete bunker if it weren't for the tiered front that shelves displays of a giant fiberglass hot dog, fries, soda, and the front of a hamburger. The sides of the structure act as a giant billboard with a big red “Pal’s” logo on either side, illuminated at night by bright red lamps. The only windows are the two order/pick-up windows, and the only doors are unassuming windowless steel doors on the back and the side under the hot dog tier (presumably a storage area or maybe an employee bathroom). To say they stand out would be a serious understatement. If you tried to get this structure built in 90 percent of the country, the city planning commissions would either laugh at you or stare at you with their collective jaws on the floor. Aside from the original and Pal's #2, the exceptions are a single location in a strip mall, and a single location in a mall food court. These are the only Pal’s with indoor seating. Pal’s #2, originally an ice cream stand called the Arctic, is a colorful building in its own right, sporting a classic Muffler Man holding a hamburger on its roof. Barger ran the Arctic and a third location called the Circle Burger for several years as separate operations with their own menus before rebranding them Pal's. In the history of the chain, only two locations (one being the Circle, who lost their lease, the other being a partnership in Elizabethton), have closed. They don’t build them often, but when they do, they’re in it for the long haul. The ordering experience at the drive-thru stores is a one-of-a-kind format. You pull up to the window on the right side of the building, which is surrounded by menu boards. An employee opens the window and takes your order. The employee then sends you around to the other window. You drive around the building to the left side window to pay and get your food. I would think it would be logical for the person taking the order to also take the money, but that’s not how they do it here. Drive-thru times are quick...the only thing that seems to slow down the process is if you're waiting for fries to cook. The burgers come off as pre-cooked and microwaved. They taste about as fresh as the ones you get at Sheetz. The buns clearly look toasted, but they also seem...steamed? They're definitely not frying to order, and I even question if the patties are fried at the restaurants at all. The menu has a limited variety of burgers and a couple of deli meat sandwiches. The most heavily used condiment is mayonnaise. They use it on every sandwich but the Sauceburger, and they use it liberally. They also have a hot dog that is really a chili dog. The “Sauceburger”, Pal's original burger, is a basic hamburger patty dipped in a sloppy Joe-like sauce and served on a bun. That’s what it tastes like…a sloppy Joe burger. The “Big Pal” (also available as a double) is a 1/3 pound patty burger topped in mayonnaise, lettuce, tomato, and onion. No pickles, which is bizarre since they’re on hand for the chipped ham sandwich. It’s really bland...at least sans tomato (which is how I eat mine). There’s a junior version of it using the smaller patty and bun. The original "Big Pal" was a 1/4-pound patty dipped in a cheese sauce. I wouldn't have minded trying that. The Chipped Ham is quite possibly the best ham sandwich I’ve ever gotten from a drive-thru. It has deli-sliced ham, lettuce, pickles, and mayo, and is served warm…not HOT…warm. REALLY good. But the Big Chicken…which is made with deli-sliced chicken breast…is really boring. The real reason I’d be a Pal’s regular if I lived in their market area would be the chili items. Pal’s “Hot Dog” is actually a chili dog with mustard and onions. The chili meat is more like a finely ground taco meat with a chili flavor, and it’s awesome. You can also get a chili burger or a “Chili Bun” which is a chili dog without the dog. Most excellent whichever way you go. I wouldn't mind finding out how Pal's chili meat works as a taco meat, actually. Chili Tacos. Nice. Pal’s “Frenchy Fry” is a basic order of fries. They claim to be topped with a special seasoning salt. It tastes like…salt. Pal’s has a decent milkshake. Pal’s apparently has a “secret menu” which is just variations on the existing menu. This includes getting a Big Pal patty dipped in the Sauceburger sauce, a Toasted Cheese, and a Dressed Hot Dog (with lettuce, tomato, and pickle). Pal’s also has a breakfast menu that I’ve never ever tried even once. Ever. Pal's doesn't franchise. The closest you can get is as a "managing partner". Pal's owns the restaurants and sets a fixed corporate profit margin. The remaining profit becomes the manager's bonus. The more efficient and profitable an operation, the better for the manager. The management positions are highly coveted and require a rigorous process that involves multiple interviews and a (salaried) training process that can take years before you get a restaurant. Pal's has an extremely low turnover rate in comparison with the rest of the industry. In 2002, Pal's was presented the Malcolm Baldrige Quality Award, a quality management award, by President George W Bush. Pal's is so highly held in recognition of their operations, they started the "Pal's Business Excellence Institute", holding seminars that are attended by companies from around the world. Pal's BEI also provides one of the largest assortments of Franklin Covey seminars. Not bad for a chain of goofy looking drive-thrus.
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